Much much easier with high voltage and high turn count. In the end it's just better to go for higher voltage. Take a look at the trends in Electric Unicycles, Dirt Bikes and EVs.
inmotionworld.com
The 3T, 6T, and 11T windings have the most copper fill for the Leafbike. There is space for 66 windings.
Don't look at me, thinking of going to 52V. Don't have a race cart like some Toecutter's I know.
If you could find an appropriate controller, a 36S pack with an 11T Leafbike motor would have stock motor wiring sufficiently robust that you'd never exceed the wiring's continuous current rating for the amount of power you're demanding. It would be interesting to see if this setup could handle a higher continuous power output without overheating the motor itself than is typical for a Leafbike.
you need a QS 273 with a body shell.
No room for a 7-speed sprocket on those, plus the cogging losses are too much. Mine is still perfectly pedalable as a "bicycle" with the electric drive system disabled, and that's how I like it.
That could work for me because it also has built-in torque sensing, allowing me to put a Pinion gearbox up front.
They were going to fix the axle, at least, if I recall.
I use electrical tape too. Knowing it gets a sticky mess as it ages, I did 2 wraps. First wrap was with the sticky side up, then reverse it and run another wrap sticky side down. This will keep the adhesive off the rim and should be neater when removing.
I will be getting a GoPro at some point. Definitely some time after my next vehicle is ridable.
Just add a mid -drive you will never overheat a hub motor that's being pulled by a mid -drive.
I had one that warped inside due to excessive heat and the magnets were rubbing against the stator. The sound was slightly different and with lower frequencyDid I cook my motor? Had the wheel off after the last ride, put it back on and it made this sound. Took it off again and tried spinning the wheel with nuts and torque arms off, made the same sound.
Changing tubes is a pain with torque arms etc, hopefully don’t need to do it too often
Check for loose debris inside the motor. That can make a similar noise when there is debris getting caught between magnet pairs as you try to spin the motor. Could be a bad bearing though.Did I cook my motor? Had the wheel off after the last ride, put it back on and it made this sound. Took it off again and tried spinning the wheel with nuts and torque arms off, made the same sound.
Changing tubes is a pain with torque arms etc, hopefully don’t need to do it too often
